FH6 Drift Tuning Guide

A drift tune in Forza Horizon 6 is built backwards from every grip tune you've ever made. You're not trying to keep the rear tires hooked up — you're trying to break them loose on demand, hold the slide at big angle, and make the transitions smooth enough to chain corners. Every setting below serves one of those three jobs.

The core idea: rotation over grip

Grip setups balance the car so both ends slide at the same time, as late as possible. Drift setups deliberately unbalance it: the front end gets maximum compliance and steering authority, while the rear is set up stiff and locked so it steps out predictably and stays out. If you take one thing from this guide, take that asymmetry — it explains every number that follows.

Anti-roll bars: soft front, stiff rear

The calculator sets the front ARB to 10 and the rear to 50. The soft front bar lets the nose roll and keeps the outside front tire planted while you steer into the slide — that's your angle control. The stiff rear bar transfers load hard across the rear axle mid-corner, which unloads the inside rear and helps the axle break traction together. This is the single most agreed-upon drift setting across every community tuning source.

Springs and damping: soft and matched

Drift springs run soft and equal — around 400 lb/in at both ends — with damping flat at 4.0 for bump and rebound on both axles. Soft, matched rates slow the weight transfer down, which is what makes transitions (the moment you flick from left slide to right slide) progressive instead of snappy. A stiff drift car changes direction violently and spins; a soft one telegraphs everything.

Tires: low pressure, on purpose

The drift compound baseline is about 23 PSI — far below the 31–32 PSI a race tire wants. Spinning rear tires generate enormous heat, and pressure climbs with heat; starting low means the rears arrive at a workable pressure mid-session instead of ballooning past it. The fronts stay slightly higher than the rears for steering response.

Alignment: maximum caster, front toe-out

• Caster 7.0° — the maximum. High caster adds dynamic camber as you steer and speeds up the self-centering that lets you catch the car between transitions. (On very light cars this much caster can snap — the calculator warns you below 2,500 lb.)
• Front camber around −4.0° — aggressive negative camber keeps the heavily-leaned front contact patch flat at full lock.
• Front toe 1.0° out, rear 0.2° in — front toe-out effectively widens your steering angle at lock; the touch of rear toe-in keeps the tail's behavior predictable rather than darty.

Differential and brakes

The rear differential goes nearly locked: 98% acceleration / 25% deceleration. Both rear wheels must spin together — an open diff lets the inside rear spin uselessly and the slide dies. Brake bias goes forward, 62% front on RWD, so stabbing the brakes mid-drift adjusts your line without yanking the rear around.

Gearing: pick your drift gear

The final drive gets a small +0.10 offset over the standard power-scaled formula. The real technique: pick the gear you'll drift in, then adjust final drive so the engine sits near redline in that gear at your typical drift speed — maximum wheelspin on demand, no mid-slide shifts.

Those are the anchors. Your car's weight, drivetrain, and slider ranges move the exact values — enter them and get the full sheet: